Can You Wear White After Labor Day? The Answer Is More Complicated Than You Think

The “rule” of no white after Labor Day comes from the turn of the century and early 1900s. As any fan of the HBO show The Gilded Age will tell you, this period of history (like so many others) had a lot of rules society was expected to follow simply because “that’s how it’s done.” One of the less onerous rules of the time was that white should only be worn between Memorial Day and Labor Day, aka the official start and end dates of summer.

That change of seasons was also marked by a mass departure from cities to the seaside or mountain cabins to escape the heat. In an age when there were dress codes for everything and women of certain social strata wore up to four or five different dresses in a day, white clothing (and other pale colors) in lightweight fabrics were the “uniform” of summer escapes. Those were then swapped out for more formal city clothes after Labor Day when folks returned to their primary residence. And now here we are with the lingering rule that you can’t wear white after summer ends.

These regimented “rules” of Emily Post’s day have largely fallen by the wayside—divorced women are no longer banished to the countryside (Aurora Fane would be so pleased) or left off dinner party guest lists. And events and dates that once dictated the change of seasons are no longer universally honored markers. White jeans and eyelet lace may still serve as visual indicators of summer, but white clothing on the whole does not.

Yes, of course you can, but specific shades and fabrics will ultimately feel better suited to the season than others. And that’s absolutely worth paying attention to. Luckily, the guidelines for dictating which white clothing items are good for summer and which are better for fall are very easy to follow.

It may seem obvious, but lighter fabrics (cotton, eyelet lace, linen) that are better at facilitating air flow on hot afternoons make for fabulous white summer clothing, while heavier materials (cashmere, wool, raw denim) are best saved for colder months. There are some fabrics that work for both, like delicate lace or silk and that’s where the specific shade starts to matter more.

Softer shades of white, like cream or eggshell or bone, feel much better suited to the softer daylight of winter than the brilliant crisp whites that accompany an equally bright summer sun. A bright white pair of straight-leg jeans sounds gorgeous for a casual June ‘fit, while a cream wash works best with a cozy cable knit sweater and an afternoon of apple picking.

Where you live also comes into play, and I don’t mean city versus countryside. A white cotton tent dress may still feel appropriate even in early November for those living in south Florida, but would be very out of place at a friendsgiving in Seattle.