A Definitive Guide to Barbour Jackets (Because They’re Not All the Same)

There are brands where shopping is fairly self-explanatory. You want a trench coat, you buy the trench coat. You want jeans, you choose your wash. And then there’s Barbour, a brand that will present you with what appears to be the same olive-green waxed jacket 14 times and expect you to understand why one is called the Bedale and another the Beaufort.

Because once you start looking closely at Barbour jackets, the differences are incredibly specific. A Bedale is shorter because it was designed for horseback riding. A Beaufort is longer because it came from the world of shooting jackets. A Spey is cropped because it was originally made for fly fishing. The Beadnell is based on the Bedale but shaped specifically for women.

Barbour has been around since 1894, and many of the jackets people are buying today trace their roots back decades. The Bedale arrived in 1980, the Spey in 1981 and the Beaufort in 1983. Which means you’re shopping a brand whose catalog has accumulated the way a British country house accumulates furniture. So before you buy the first green jacket that looks cute on the model, here’s how to decode Barbour.

Because buying a Barbour without understanding waxed cotton is like buying raw denim and then becoming upset when it changes. Waxed cotton is cotton treated with wax to help protect against wet and windy weather. Unlike a modern technical shell, however, the fabric changes with wear. It creases and gets marks, so eventually, it needs to be re-waxed. A broken-in Barbour has the same appeal as worn leather boots or jeans that have faded where your body bends.

Your Barbour needs to fit perfectly. The older silhouettes were designed around movement and layering, which is why jackets like the Bedale and Beaufort have comparatively relaxed fits. The Beadnell is a bit more shaped, and the Transport goes in the opposite direction and is all about giving volume. If you want something trim, look at the Beadnell or Ashby, and if you want classic and roomy, start with the Bedale.

This is one of the biggest misconceptions about waxed jackets. A traditional Barbour is primarily outer protection, not a giant insulated winter coat.

Yes, but with reasonable expectations. Waxed cotton is built to resist weather. But if you’re standing in a downpour for two hours, you’re better off reaching for a technical raincoat. For normal rain, wind, drizzly commutes and generally miserable fall weather, that’s where Barbour shines.

If you pop in a Barbour store, you’ll encounter two names repeatedly: Thornproof and Sylkoil. Both are waxed cotton finishes, but they don’t look or feel exactly the same. Thornproof has a smoother, somewhat more streamlined appearance. Sylkoil is softer and more matte, with a more broken-in quality. Neither is objectively better.

Yes, eventually the wax coating wears down with use, which means the jacket needs periodic reproofing to restore its weather resistance. Barbour jackets are designed to be maintained, but don’t panic over every crease or mark. You wear it, beat it up a little, re-wax it and keep going. Just don’t ever put your waxed jacket in the washing machine.

Sort of. Barbour sells men’s and women’s styles, but many of the jackets we now think of as Barbour classics were originally designed for men. That includes the Bedale, Beaufort and Border. In practice, though, there’s nothing particularly gendered about them; however, men’s styles tend to be straighter through the body, while women’s versions are generally cut closer to the body. The Beadnell, for example, is Barbour’s more fitted, feminine answer to the Bedale. But if you want that slightly oversized fit, don’t head for the women’s section. A traditional men’s Barbour might give you the silhouette you’re after.

Barbour also makes a surprisingly large selection of puffers and quilted jackets, ranging from lightweight diamond-quilted layers to seriously warm, longline coats. If you’re deciding between the two, think about what you actually need your coat to do. A classic waxed Barbour is great for wind, drizzle and layering, but it isn’t inherently all that warm. A puffer is the better choice for legitimately cold weather, especially if you want insulation without multiple layers underneath.